Save More Pars
Get Up And Down More Often
At the moment of truth when hitting shorter shots, how you come into contact with the ground is more critical than it is with full iron shots. With full iron shots, you take divots on the target side of the ball. With chips, instead of taking divots, you actually glide across the turf. Plus you swing a lot slower, and how you make contact with the green stuff then is even more important. In the case of the photo to the left, it looks as though I’ve hit a decent shot, but notice how low into the grass the leading edge of the wedge is. I actually stubbed this shot, and both the ballflight and spin rate of my ball were lower than I had wanted.
With less friction comes less deceleration through the shot. Not only does this help add a little more backspin, but avoiding too much surface contact also prevents me from opening or closing the clubface at impact, two things that send the ball off the intended line.
If you have a depressed lie, then more surface contact is necessary to hit the ball. With ordinary lies, brush across the top of the grass and let the wedge’s grooves and lofts do the work for you in getting the ball up and airborne.
If i had selected the right wedge, then maybe I wouldn’t have totally whiffed this shot! Many amateurs think that the closer they get to the hole, the higher-lofted wedge they ought to use. Well, this case proves that theory wrong. I’m actually on a downhill/sidehill just off the green. I played the shot correctly, with my shoulders aligned to the slope and the ball in the right position. Heck, I even made a good swing. The problem? My 60-degree had too much loft, and I slid right underneath the golf ball.
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